Merciful Light Pavilion
A beautiful day begins early with breakfast at 6:30 am. My hosts and translator meet me at the hotel and we depart immediately for Huangshan Mountain. After an hour’s drive we arrive at the headquarters of the Huangshan Tourism Development Committee. Our guide for the day quickly takes my computer briefcase to his office and we transfer to a van. I learn that my guide is a member of the Information Service for the Huangshan Tourism Development Committee. They have arranged our admission, lunch, and the guide to ensure that I enjoy Huangshan Mountain. Our van whisks by the parking lots for the cars and buses, it is an indication of special treatment afforded by my kind hosts. As the day continues I will reflect on this courtesy with much gratitude . . . they have saved me many steps. The van swings to a stop at the base of the main gate for the southern entrance of the park. My first view of the mountain is simply beautiful. My Huangshan Mountain adventure begins as we pass the Merciful Light Pavilion. As I write this after concluding my journey, I consider it might have been wise to pause to light some incense and pray for strength as we passed this temple.
Stairs as we climb toward the Jade Screen Cableway
We begin climbing stairs almost immediately to reach the Jade Screen Cableway building. As we climb the long flights of stairs I am greeted by signs overhead stating that the wait from this point is two hours, one hour, and then 30 minutes. Fortunately for us we move as swiftly as my legs can carry me up the long stairs. In my heart I am grateful for the tram as it will carry us up the mountain. The wait to board the cable way is just a few moments as we have not come at a busy time.
The Jade Screen Cableway was established in 1996 carries tourists from the Merciful Light Pavilion (Ci Guang Ge) to Jade Screen Pavilion (Yu Ping Lou) near the top of the mountain. One cable car accommodates six persons at one time. The car slows as the previous guests exit the car and we climb aboard car #13. I wonder, if the number has any significance and then discount it as a superstitious thought. Our car glides swiftly up a distance that would otherwise require 3 hours on foot. I see the stairs descending below and silently thank the people who constructed this cableway.
The Jade Screen Cableway was established in 1996 carries tourists from the Merciful Light Pavilion (Ci Guang Ge) to Jade Screen Pavilion (Yu Ping Lou) near the top of the mountain. One cable car accommodates six persons at one time. The car slows as the previous guests exit the car and we climb aboard car #13. I wonder, if the number has any significance and then discount it as a superstitious thought. Our car glides swiftly up a distance that would otherwise require 3 hours on foot. I see the stairs descending below and silently thank the people who constructed this cableway.
First views of Huangshan Mtns
Now I should pause to mention that I will often refer to Mt. Huangshan as Huangshan or Yellow Mountain, but in truth I am referencing the collective of 72 major mountain peaks, 36 lesser mountain peaks, and countless minor peaks within the Mt. Huangshan Scenic area. The ride up the mountain is amid the changing colors on the trees signaling the cooler weather and the impending winter season. As our cable car ascends up the mountain side, it is clear that the vegetation gradually changes from dark green forests to bright green bamboo trees dancing in the wind, then scrub brush transitions to more alpine type vegetation, and topped off with Huangshan Pine trees. The views from every angle are excellent but they are nothing to compare with the sights I will see as the day progresses. Our adventure begins on what is called the front of the mountain or western side.
Huangshan Mountain Welcoming Tree
We begin our initial assault on Mt. Huangshan by climbing stairs to reach Jade Screen Peak and the symbol of Yellow Mountain, the Welcoming Tree or “Guest Greeting Pine.” Many of the Huangshan Pine trees are several hundred years old. The Welcoming Tree is estimated to be over 800 years old. These trees are hardy plants that can grow anywhere, in almost any condition, and twists their shape to conform to the mountain and the dominant winds. We cannot see the famous landmark tree from where we leave the mountainside cable station but there are many smaller trees and flowering azalea bushes as we make our way. The short stature of the Huangshan Pine trees disguise their age that might be over a hundred years old. The seeds that fall into the mountains deep crevices take root and grow despite the harsh conditions. Due to the wind in certain areas of the mountain, a Huangshan Pine might only have branches leaning from one side. The Welcoming Tree has branches reaching to one side as if bidding you welcome . . . come to me on Huangshan Mountain. I am told that the roots of these trees are several times longer than their trunk. It is no wonder that they are often symbolic of dignity, strength, and vitality enduring wind, rain, and rapid changes in temperature.
Just one of the crowded steep stairways
The climb up the steep stairs is challenging and I must pause often to catch my breath. I take advantage of these momentary breaks to look out among the beautiful vistas that surround the winding walkway and staircases. The crowds press in close as we climb and almost become overwhelming as we approach the famous viewpoints. There is no peace and quiet here so one must close out the chaos around them and focus inward to truly enjoy the immensity of the experience. Fortunately I am not easily swayed from my goal and seek to soak in the refreshment of the breeze as it sweeps up the mountain walls. Before departing this area we take in the view of the Jade Screen Peak as it towers above us with a small hotel (Yupinlou Binguan) hugging its shoulder. This small hotel was once a Manjusri Temple. I wish I had the time to stay atop the mountain in hopes of enjoying a more leisurely pace and perhaps some quiet after the throngs of tourists had descended for the night. Dark red handwriting by Chairman Mao Ze Dong has been inscribed on the side of the granite of Jade Screen Peak. It is transcribed for me to read . . . “Splendid is the landscape.” I agree, it is most splendid indeed. Many people are posing for photos with the writings in the background or attempting to take a smoking break. If you are an addicted smoker then be advised, there are only a few designated smoking areas along the stone pathway. Here is one of those areas and so many people are crowded into this smoking area that my throat burns with the acrid smell of the smoke. Personally I would love to see smoking banned from the area completely.
Celestrial Peak stairway
Due to the smoke that fills the air, I do not tarry long in this area. After seeing the tree and taking several group photos, we retrace our steps down from this peak. As we descend the last steep stairway we took to reach Jade Screen Peak, I am careful as the steps are uneven and people seem to be coming from all angles. Many times there are no hand railings to steady you and several times I fear that I am a split second away from falling head first down the steps. Are my knees shaking from the exertion or from the fear of falling? If you are seriously afraid of heights, reconsider your emotional well-being among the peaks of Huangshan.
Our guide springs up the next set of stairs as if he is part mountain goat. We are climbing up toward Celestrial Peak, the highest peak in this area. At times the walkway and stairs seem to jut out from the mountain wall into mid-air. At one brief stop, I pause to enjoy the view and the cool breeze sweeping up from below. The wind brushes my face lifting my spirit upward. Forgive me as I become a bit poetic and reflective of the memory but my heart soar as on wing. The views were awe inspiring . . . and yes, I treasured the moment to rest and catch my breath!
Our guide springs up the next set of stairs as if he is part mountain goat. We are climbing up toward Celestrial Peak, the highest peak in this area. At times the walkway and stairs seem to jut out from the mountain wall into mid-air. At one brief stop, I pause to enjoy the view and the cool breeze sweeping up from below. The wind brushes my face lifting my spirit upward. Forgive me as I become a bit poetic and reflective of the memory but my heart soar as on wing. The views were awe inspiring . . . and yes, I treasured the moment to rest and catch my breath!
Thread the Needle Passageway
As I climb yet another set of stairs, I wonder how these walkways and staircases could be built so high up the mountain with nothing to support them from beneath. Our guide tells us that these granite steps were started more than 1,500 years ago. Some are carved right into the mountain and others have been built with granite slabs that were carried by hand. What an amazing feat of strength and courage. This must have been a Herculean task and appears to be an on-going process as we see repairs being made at several points along the trail. There are over 60,000 steps amid the 72 peaks and more than 50 kilometers of pathways.
Map of the Lotus Peak area
My guide tells me that we are only going 5 kilometers, so I begin to calculate how far we have come. A bit of quick math at the next stone map we pass does not reassure me. It was only .4 km from the Jade Screen Cableway to the turn for the last .1 km stairway to the Jade Screen Peak. Back down .1 km (Did that count in the 5 kilometers, I wonder?) before we turned up the 1.5 km endurance climb past the Celestial Peak (or Heavenly Capital Peak which stands at 1,830 meters or 6,003 feet) before turning toward Lotus Pavilion. (The trail up to the top of the Celestial Peak was closed for maintenance. I say a little prayer of thankfulness as the trail appears to require safety harnesses to keep one from falling off the steps.) Okay, 2 kilometers completed! In my mind I am hoping we have come almost halfway to our final destination. Mr. Wang points out the Meteorological Center with its distinctive round radar structure in the distance and I hope that the building for the cableway is located nearby. We continue climbing up before descending down past a rock that looks very much like an old-fashioned cell phone or someone pointing with 1 finger in the sky. Hey the mountain is proclaiming that it is the number 1 mountain in all of China. At one point we pass a longevity bridge. I actually pass it without taking it and then after hearing that crossing this will ensure a long life, I turn back to include it in my steps. Crossing the Longevity Bridge may just be the blessing I need to ensure that I will survive today’s journey.
Peng Lai Three Island, Huangshan
Lotus Peak is the highest peak we will pass at 1,864-meter (6,115-foot). As we cross Lotus Ridge, the peak towers above us and we can see out to Peng Lai Three Island. There are many amazing views from this area. The view brings tears to my eyes and music to my heart. It is almost like I stand here alone gazing across the endless peaks and valleys. My imagination takes flight as if on wing to unimaginable places and times in history. If only I could stay for many days to write and take photographs to grace the pages of a book.
I can easily see how Mt. Huangshan has inspired many poets, philosophers, and painters throughout history. Li Po, a famous poet of the Tang Dynasty wrote: "…Once I was on its lofty summit, admiring Tianmu Pine below. The place is still traceable where the immortal stood before ascending to heaven made elixir out of jade." The names of the peaks and formations escape me now and my little camera is not capable of capturing the beauty. If I take this journey again, I will need to hire my own porter to carry my tripod, cameras, lenses and filters . . . in hope of capturing some portion of the endless beauty from every vantage point.
I can easily see how Mt. Huangshan has inspired many poets, philosophers, and painters throughout history. Li Po, a famous poet of the Tang Dynasty wrote: "…Once I was on its lofty summit, admiring Tianmu Pine below. The place is still traceable where the immortal stood before ascending to heaven made elixir out of jade." The names of the peaks and formations escape me now and my little camera is not capable of capturing the beauty. If I take this journey again, I will need to hire my own porter to carry my tripod, cameras, lenses and filters . . . in hope of capturing some portion of the endless beauty from every vantage point.
Now we descend the nerve-racking 100 step Scaling Ladder (Bai Bu Yun Ti)down from Lotus Ridge. This stairway is also known as 100 Step Cloud stairs. Clearly the name is appropriate. We are descending steeply with rock walls serving as your only safeguard from falling. The narrow-way is meant to serve 2 people wide, but is often crowded with 4 or 5 people attempting to pass in each direction.
Did I mention that I have a healthy respect for heights? At this very moment I want to confess to a fear of falling! Never have I climbed down such a steep stairway that appears to fall away beneath your very feet. I really cannot enjoy the view before me as I climb down the stairs. I focus on one step at a time . . . concentrate placing one foot firmly on each step before moving the other foot. I forget to take a photo as I dare not take my hands away from the wall. My fingers search for any rough edge to cling to as if I were climbing down a mountain face without a rope . . . now that I reflect on the experience, I wish I had a rope around my waist to ensure that I would not fall. If I did I fear I would knock down several hundred other tourists before falling into the valley below. (The photo I did manage to snap was taken from the climb back up the opposite side of the valley. Sorry, folks . . . you will have to envision the experience based on my description.)
Yesterday we saw a sign at the grottos instructing us in “Chinglish” do not enjoy the views . . . while walking! Well I heeded the instructions while descending this “ladder” into oblivion. Someone pointed out Mt. Tianmu to the east, Mt. Lushan to the west, and Mt. Jiuhua . . . somewhere out among the gray mountains that seemed to go on forever. Once I find myself on level ground, I take a moment to turn around and look back up the 100 step ladder. I steady myself as if viewing this ladder alone is sufficient to make one faint. If I were not standing here I would never believe that I had succeeded in this feat of courage! After admiring the 180 degree views, I ask where to next. They point out the trail across the mountain as it snakes up another peak. Okay where is the emergency escape route out of here? Have I lost my mind in attempting this trail? Seriously, I need a reality check. I draw deep into my inner self to muster the courage to attack this next mountain. Another deep draw from my water bottle and a handful of almonds help fortify me for the next assault.
Did I mention that I have a healthy respect for heights? At this very moment I want to confess to a fear of falling! Never have I climbed down such a steep stairway that appears to fall away beneath your very feet. I really cannot enjoy the view before me as I climb down the stairs. I focus on one step at a time . . . concentrate placing one foot firmly on each step before moving the other foot. I forget to take a photo as I dare not take my hands away from the wall. My fingers search for any rough edge to cling to as if I were climbing down a mountain face without a rope . . . now that I reflect on the experience, I wish I had a rope around my waist to ensure that I would not fall. If I did I fear I would knock down several hundred other tourists before falling into the valley below. (The photo I did manage to snap was taken from the climb back up the opposite side of the valley. Sorry, folks . . . you will have to envision the experience based on my description.)
Yesterday we saw a sign at the grottos instructing us in “Chinglish” do not enjoy the views . . . while walking! Well I heeded the instructions while descending this “ladder” into oblivion. Someone pointed out Mt. Tianmu to the east, Mt. Lushan to the west, and Mt. Jiuhua . . . somewhere out among the gray mountains that seemed to go on forever. Once I find myself on level ground, I take a moment to turn around and look back up the 100 step ladder. I steady myself as if viewing this ladder alone is sufficient to make one faint. If I were not standing here I would never believe that I had succeeded in this feat of courage! After admiring the 180 degree views, I ask where to next. They point out the trail across the mountain as it snakes up another peak. Okay where is the emergency escape route out of here? Have I lost my mind in attempting this trail? Seriously, I need a reality check. I draw deep into my inner self to muster the courage to attack this next mountain. Another deep draw from my water bottle and a handful of almonds help fortify me for the next assault.
The climb up to the Heavenly Sea.
We now cross the valley before turning our eyes upward towards Turtle Cave. Mrs. Wang points out Turtle Cave near the top of a narrow steep stairway (1.4 km) up a mountain in search of something called the Heavenly Sea (.7km). There is a more vertical option that appears to be only for those with legs of steel and absolutely no fears whatsoever! By my count that should be near the end of this marathon of stairs. (By the way Kris, I might just be able to take on a half marathon on level ground if I can handle this hike up and down sheer mountain cliffs.)
This version of the previous image has been zoomed in hopes of showing you the number of stairways on the path to Turtle Cave. You can see the white railings along some of the stairways as they zigzag across the mountain before turning to pass through the cave. After clearing this narrow passageway through the cave, you must make a final assault straight up to the top of this ridge. (The trail to Angel's Landing in Zion National Park is a "walk in the park" in comparison to this trail.) The stairs are unrelenting. My calves are screaming from the steps. I try to place my full foot on the steps before pulling up, but sometimes the steps are too narrow for my big feet. The railing is so low at this point that I feel I might fall backward as I feel gravity pushing me down as I struggle to pull myself up this mountain. I ask Cristine if I can steady myself with a hand on her shoulder. Although I do not lean heavily, it seems to help keep me climbing upward at a steady pace. As we turn toward the base of the Turtle Cave I realize there is no railing in this passage and I pause to steady my nerves and catch my breath. I pause and sit in the shade of the mountain before turning to make my assault on the final third of the climb. Just a brief note . . . It is during the brief rest before Turtle Cave that an Asian man politely asks my age. I am somewhat surprised as most Chinese would never ask such a personal question, but I tell him through my translator. He beams with a large smile, gives me the thumbs up, and commends me for making the climb at my age! (Or at least my translator is censoring the remark in an effort to protect what little pride might be left in my struggle to achieve the summit.) Someone please tell me that this is the last climb of the day! I might be able to walk 4 miles in one hour, but those are relatively level hikes in comparison to this day.
Victory on Huangshan Mountain
After clearing the cave we make it up the final one third of the mountain face and cross the ridge before making a brief descent. It is brief respite as we return to climbing to reach another crowded viewing platform, the Haixin Pavilion. Several people are scrambling up the rocks to get a better view. I am satisfied with resting on a bench. Our guide assures me that we are almost to our destination. I mistakenly believe he means the cableway, instead he means Baiyun Hotel where we will enjoy our lunch. As I struggle to climb the final ascent to the Baiyun Hotel, I now accept Mrs. Wang’s arm for support. Cristine and Mrs. Wang are encouraging me as I am now find my legs growing weaker with each step. I pause more frequently as my right knee trembles as I attempt to climb. The only comfort is the knowledge that I have covered the largest portion of our journey. As we arrive at the final pavilion before the hotel, I stand victoriously on a stone outcropping.
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