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My Huangshan Mountain Adventure

10/22/2009

9 Comments

 
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Merciful Light Pavilion
A beautiful day begins early with breakfast at 6:30 am.  My hosts and translator meet me at the hotel and we depart immediately for Huangshan Mountain.  After an hour’s drive we arrive at the headquarters of the Huangshan Tourism Development Committee.  Our guide for the day quickly takes my computer briefcase to his office and we transfer to a van. I learn that my guide is a member of the Information Service for the Huangshan Tourism Development Committee. They have arranged our admission, lunch, and the guide to ensure that I enjoy Huangshan Mountain.  Our van whisks by the parking lots for the cars and buses, it is an indication of special treatment afforded by my kind hosts. As the day continues I will reflect on this courtesy with much gratitude . . . they have saved me many steps.  The van swings to a stop at the base of the main gate for the southern entrance of the park.  My first view of the mountain is simply beautiful. My Huangshan Mountain adventure begins as we pass the Merciful Light Pavilion.  As I write this after concluding my journey, I consider it might have been wise to pause to light some incense and pray for strength as we passed this temple.  

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Stairs as we climb toward the Jade Screen Cableway
We begin climbing stairs almost immediately to reach the Jade Screen Cableway building.  As we climb the long flights of stairs I am greeted by signs overhead stating that the wait from this point is two hours, one hour, and then 30 minutes.  Fortunately for us we move as swiftly as my legs can carry me up the long stairs.  In my heart I am grateful for the tram as it will carry us up the mountain.  The wait to board the cable way is just a few moments as we have not come at a busy time.

The Jade Screen Cableway was established in 1996 carries tourists from the Merciful Light Pavilion (Ci Guang Ge) to Jade Screen Pavilion (Yu Ping Lou) near the top of the mountain. One cable car accommodates six persons at one time. The car slows as the previous guests exit the car and we climb aboard car #13.  I wonder, if the number has any significance and then discount it as a superstitious thought. Our car glides swiftly up a distance that would otherwise require 3 hours on foot. I see the stairs descending below and silently thank the people who constructed this cableway.

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First views of Huangshan Mtns
Now I should pause to mention that I will often refer to Mt. Huangshan as Huangshan or Yellow Mountain, but in truth I am referencing the collective of 72 major mountain peaks, 36 lesser mountain peaks, and countless minor peaks within the Mt. Huangshan Scenic area. The ride up the mountain is amid the changing colors on the trees signaling the cooler weather and the impending winter season. As our cable car ascends up the mountain side, it is clear that the vegetation gradually changes from dark green forests to bright green bamboo trees dancing in the wind, then scrub brush transitions to more alpine type vegetation, and topped off with Huangshan Pine trees. The views from every angle are excellent but they are nothing to compare with the sights I will see as the day progresses. Our adventure begins on what is called the front of the mountain or western side.

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Huangshan Mountain Welcoming Tree
We begin our initial assault on Mt. Huangshan by climbing stairs to reach Jade Screen Peak and the symbol of Yellow Mountain, the Welcoming Tree or “Guest Greeting Pine.”  Many of the Huangshan Pine trees are several hundred years old. The Welcoming Tree is estimated to be over 800 years old. These trees are hardy plants that can grow anywhere, in almost any condition, and twists their shape to conform to the mountain and the dominant winds. We cannot see the famous landmark tree from where we leave the mountainside cable station but there are many smaller trees and flowering azalea bushes as we make our way. The short stature of the Huangshan Pine trees disguise their age that might be over a hundred years old.  The seeds that fall into the mountains deep crevices take root and grow despite the harsh conditions. Due to the wind in certain areas of the mountain, a Huangshan Pine might only have branches leaning from one side. The Welcoming Tree has branches reaching to one side as if bidding you welcome . . . come to me on Huangshan Mountain. I am told that the roots of these trees are several times longer than their trunk. It is no wonder that they are often symbolic of dignity, strength, and vitality enduring wind, rain, and rapid changes in temperature.

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Just one of the crowded steep stairways
The climb up the steep stairs is challenging and I must pause often to catch my breath. I take advantage of these momentary breaks to look out among the beautiful vistas that surround the winding walkway and staircases.  The crowds press in close as we climb and almost become overwhelming as we approach the famous viewpoints. There is no peace and quiet here so one must close out the chaos around them and focus inward to truly enjoy the immensity of the experience.  Fortunately I am not easily swayed from my goal and seek to soak in the refreshment of the breeze as it sweeps up the mountain walls.  Before departing this area we take in the view of the Jade Screen Peak as it towers above us with a small hotel (Yupinlou Binguan) hugging its shoulder. This small hotel was once a Manjusri Temple. I wish I had the time to stay atop the mountain in hopes of enjoying a more leisurely pace and perhaps some quiet after the throngs of tourists had descended for the night. Dark red handwriting by Chairman Mao Ze Dong has been inscribed on the side of the granite of Jade Screen Peak.  It is transcribed for me to read . . . “Splendid is the landscape.” I agree, it is most splendid indeed. Many people are posing for photos with the writings in the background or attempting to take a smoking break.  If you are an addicted smoker then be advised, there are only a few designated smoking areas along the stone pathway.  Here is one of those areas and so many people are crowded into this smoking area that my throat burns with the acrid smell of the smoke. Personally I would love to see smoking banned from the area completely.

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Celestrial Peak stairway
Due to the smoke that fills the air, I do not tarry long in this area. After seeing the tree and taking several group photos, we retrace our steps down from this peak.  As we descend the last steep stairway we took to reach Jade Screen Peak, I am careful as the steps are uneven and people seem to be coming from all angles. Many times there are no hand railings to steady you and several times I fear that I am a split second away from falling head first down the steps. Are my knees shaking from the exertion or from the fear of falling? If you are seriously afraid of heights, reconsider your emotional well-being among the peaks of Huangshan.  

Our guide springs up the next set of stairs as if he is part mountain goat.  We are climbing up toward Celestrial Peak, the highest peak in this area. At times the walkway and stairs seem to jut out from the mountain wall into mid-air. At one brief stop, I pause to enjoy the view and the cool breeze sweeping up from below. The wind brushes my face lifting my spirit upward.  Forgive me as I become a bit poetic and reflective of the memory but my heart soar as on wing.  The views were awe inspiring . . . and yes, I treasured the moment to rest and catch my breath!

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Thread the Needle Passageway
As I climb yet another set of stairs, I wonder how these walkways and staircases could be built so high up the mountain with nothing to support them from beneath. Our guide tells us that these granite steps were started more than 1,500 years ago.  Some are carved right into the mountain and others have been built with granite slabs that were carried by hand. What an amazing feat of strength and courage.  This must have been a Herculean task and appears to be an on-going process as we see repairs being made at several points along the trail.  There are over 60,000 steps amid the 72 peaks and more than 50 kilometers of pathways.  

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Map of the Lotus Peak area
My guide tells me that we are only going 5 kilometers, so I begin to calculate how far we have come. A bit of quick math at the next stone map we pass does not reassure me.  It was only .4 km from the Jade Screen Cableway to the turn for the last .1 km stairway to the Jade Screen Peak. Back down .1 km (Did that count in the 5 kilometers, I wonder?) before we turned up the 1.5 km endurance climb past the Celestial Peak (or Heavenly Capital Peak which stands at 1,830 meters or 6,003 feet) before turning toward Lotus Pavilion. (The trail up to the top of the Celestial Peak was closed for maintenance. I say a little prayer of thankfulness as the trail appears to require safety harnesses to keep one from falling off the steps.) Okay, 2 kilometers completed! In my mind I am hoping we have come almost halfway to our final destination. Mr. Wang points out the Meteorological Center with its distinctive round radar structure in the distance and I hope that the building for the cableway is located nearby. We continue climbing up before descending down past a rock that looks very much like an old-fashioned cell phone or someone pointing with 1 finger in the sky.  Hey the mountain is proclaiming that it is the number 1 mountain in all of China. At one point we pass a longevity bridge.  I actually pass it without taking it and then after hearing that crossing this will ensure a long life, I turn back to include it in my steps.  Crossing the Longevity Bridge may just be the blessing I need to ensure that I will survive today’s journey.

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Peng Lai Three Island, Huangshan
Lotus Peak is the highest peak we will pass at 1,864-meter (6,115-foot). As we cross Lotus Ridge, the peak towers above us and we can see out to Peng Lai Three Island. There are many amazing views from this area. The view brings tears to my eyes and music to my heart.  It is almost like I stand here alone gazing across the endless peaks and valleys.  My imagination takes flight as if on wing to unimaginable places and times in history. If only I could stay for many days to write and take photographs to grace the pages of a book. 

I can easily see how Mt. Huangshan has inspired many poets, philosophers, and painters throughout history. Li Po, a famous poet of the Tang Dynasty wrote: "…Once I was on its lofty summit, admiring Tianmu Pine below. The place is still traceable where the immortal stood before ascending to heaven made elixir out of jade."  The names of the peaks and formations escape me now and my little camera is not capable of capturing the beauty.  If I take this journey again, I will need to hire my own porter to carry my tripod, cameras, lenses and filters . . . in hope of capturing some portion of the endless beauty from every vantage point.    

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Now we descend the nerve-racking 100 step Scaling Ladder (Bai Bu Yun Ti)down from Lotus Ridge.  This stairway is also known as 100 Step Cloud stairs.  Clearly the name is appropriate.  We are descending steeply with rock walls serving as your only safeguard from falling. The narrow-way is meant to serve 2 people wide, but is often crowded with 4 or 5 people attempting to pass in each direction.

Did I mention that I have a healthy respect for heights? At this very moment I want to confess to a fear of falling! Never have I climbed down such a steep stairway that appears to fall away beneath your very feet. I really cannot enjoy the view before me as I climb down the stairs.  I focus on one step at a time . . . concentrate placing one foot firmly on each step before moving the other foot.  I forget to take a photo as I dare not take my hands away from the wall.  My fingers search for any rough edge to cling to as if I were climbing down a mountain face without a rope . . . now that I reflect on the experience, I wish I had a rope around my waist to ensure that I would not fall.  If I did I fear I would knock down several hundred other tourists before falling into the valley below.  (The photo I did manage to snap was taken from the climb back up the opposite side of the valley. Sorry, folks . . . you will have to envision the experience based on my description.)

Yesterday we saw a sign at the grottos instructing us in “Chinglish” do not enjoy the views . . . while walking! Well I heeded the instructions while descending this “ladder” into oblivion. Someone pointed out Mt. Tianmu to the east, Mt. Lushan to the west, and Mt. Jiuhua . . . somewhere out among the gray mountains that seemed to go on forever. Once I find myself on level ground, I take a moment to turn around and look back up the 100 step ladder. I steady myself as if viewing this ladder alone is sufficient to make one faint.  If I were not standing here I would never believe that I had succeeded in this feat of courage! After admiring the 180 degree views, I ask where to next.  They point out the trail across the mountain as it snakes up another peak.  Okay where is the emergency escape route out of here?  Have I lost my mind in attempting this trail? Seriously, I need a reality check. I draw deep into my inner self to muster the courage to attack this next mountain.  Another deep draw from my water bottle and a handful of almonds help fortify me for the next assault. 

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The climb up to the Heavenly Sea.
We now cross the valley before turning our eyes upward towards Turtle Cave. Mrs. Wang points out Turtle Cave near the top of a narrow steep stairway (1.4 km) up a mountain in search of something called the Heavenly Sea (.7km). There is a more vertical option that appears to be only for those with legs of steel and absolutely no fears whatsoever! By my count that should be near the end of this marathon of stairs. (By the way Kris, I might just be able to take on a half marathon on level ground if I can handle this hike up and down sheer mountain cliffs.)

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This version of the previous image has been zoomed in hopes of showing you the number of stairways on the path to Turtle Cave. You can see the white railings along some of the stairways as they zigzag across the mountain before turning to pass through the cave. After clearing this narrow passageway through the cave, you must make a final assault straight up to the top of this ridge. (The trail to Angel's Landing in Zion National Park is a "walk in the park" in comparison to this trail.) The stairs are unrelenting.  My calves are screaming from the steps.  I try to place my full foot on the steps before pulling up, but sometimes the steps are too narrow for my big feet.  The railing is so low at this point that I feel I might fall backward as I feel gravity pushing me down as I struggle to pull myself up this mountain.  I ask Cristine if I can steady myself with a hand on her shoulder.  Although I do not lean heavily, it seems to help keep me climbing upward at a steady pace. As we turn toward the base of the Turtle Cave I realize there is no railing in this passage and I pause to steady my nerves and catch my breath. I pause and sit in the shade of the mountain before turning to make my assault on the final third of the climb. Just a brief note . . . It is during the brief rest before Turtle Cave that an Asian man politely asks my age.  I am somewhat surprised as most Chinese would never ask such a personal question, but I tell him through my translator.  He beams with a large smile, gives me the thumbs up, and commends me for making the climb at my age! (Or at least my translator is censoring the remark in an effort to protect what little pride might be left in my struggle to achieve the summit.)  Someone please tell me that this is the last climb of the day! I might be able to walk 4 miles in one hour, but those are relatively level hikes in comparison to this day. 

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Victory on Huangshan Mountain
After clearing the cave we make it up the final one third of the mountain face and cross the ridge before making a brief descent. It is brief respite as we return to climbing to reach another crowded viewing platform, the Haixin Pavilion.  Several people are scrambling up the rocks to get a better view.  I am satisfied with resting on a bench.  Our guide assures me that we are almost to our destination.  I mistakenly believe he means the cableway, instead he means Baiyun Hotel where we will enjoy our lunch. As I struggle to climb the final ascent to the Baiyun Hotel, I now accept Mrs. Wang’s arm for support.  Cristine and Mrs. Wang are encouraging me as I am now find my legs growing weaker with each step.  I pause more frequently as my right knee trembles as I attempt to climb.  The only comfort is the knowledge that I have covered the largest portion of our journey. As we arrive at the final pavilion before the hotel, I stand victoriously on a stone outcropping.

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The Mysterious Grottoes of Flower Mountain

10/20/2009

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Our afternoon begins with a short drive into the countryside between Huangshan and Tunxi City.  We turn into a parking lot and wait while Mr. and Mrs. Wang talk to a few people.  Then we drive down into a ravine where it appears some type of vine like grapes has been grown.  Our car drives past some small booths where water and snack items are being sold. After some brief comments with the men at the entry gate, we are admitted to the site. We drive past an archery range, a horseback riding area, and approach a tall white structure supporting a suspension bridge across the river.  Mrs. Wang and Cristine escort me up the towering staircase and cross the suspension bridge that bounces slightly under our footsteps.  The bridge leads us to a pretty park area where soft music drifts from disguised speakers along the path.  Towering bushes with large gardenia like flowers emit a soft fragrance in the air.  We turn up a long staircase to approach Grotto 35, the largest of these mysterious manmade caves. Unlike caves that I have toured previously, these grottos were created by humans using crude hand tools.  Entering Grotto 35, it first appears similar to commercial cave tours with colored electric lights but visitors are allowed to wander freely among the grotto.  There are clear, cold pools of still water with heavy sediment on the bottom.  At first I ponder the merits of this tourist sight, but as I wander the vast winding rooms I being to understand the mystery.  The rooms hewn from the solid rock appear to be masterfully crafted with signs of the worker’s labor still apparent in the deep chisel marks.  Close inspection reveals holes carved in the ceiling where torches once lit the area for the workers.  Soot can be seen on several ceilings.  As I move deeper into this grotto I am amazed that they were not only able to carve out these large areas, but marvel at the very thought of dragging these stones out of the grotto.  No one can determine where these stones were taken and little is known how they were moved.  I am told that the grottos are close to the river and it is suspected that boats were used to ferry the stones to their final destination.  Over 200,000 cubic meters of rock were removed from these 36 grottos.  Suddenly my mind recalls the cave in the Swiss Family Robinson novel by Johann Wyss.  Were these caves once used by ancient people to store their food or shelter them during the heat of the summer? It does make one wonder how these grottos stood so long without discovery.  Couldn’t carbon dating be done to discover if any of the stone from here were used in the Forbidden City or the Summer Palace?

Dinner is being hosted by Mr. Wang’s sisters and brother-in-law.  It is an honor to be invited to a Chinese family home and so I am pleased with the opportunity.  I am terrible with people’s names when I do not write them down so forgive me for failing to recall everyone’s names.  We are welcomed into the home by his brother in-law’s mother.  She was a petite woman with a big smile and a kind manner. His brother-in-law prepared tea for us. Small oranges and nuts were set out before us as we relaxed in the living room on a traditional wooden chair similar to a sofa.  We could hear preparations beginning for the dinner.  Mr. Wang disappeared into the kitchen while Mrs. Wang and Cristine chatted about Chinese home life. Our dinner was relaxing around a traditional Chinese round table.  There were a wealth of dishes including several vegetable dishes, fish, rice, soup, freshwater shrimp, and the barbeque meat dish I had become so fond of in the recent days.  I enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere and soon was filled to satisfaction.  Just as we were leaving the kindly old woman appeared from the kitchen with yet one more dish to complete the feast.  I fulfilled her wish to try the soup and enjoyed the warmth as it filled my tummy with total satisfaction.  If I were to write down my satiety level at this time it would register gently full.  Not stuffed but probably more than I should have enjoyed at one meal. It was back to the hotel for a good night’s rest.   

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Huangshan Heritage & Future

10/20/2009

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Tangyue Memorial Archways
It is a beautiful morning in Huangshan as I take a short walk along the river.  The city is teeming with activity as cars, trucks, and buses cross the bridge over the river. There are several people on the opposite bank that are doing laundry or fishing. After my walk I return to my room to prepare for the day and visit the restaurant for breakfast.  It is a buffet of Chinese and Western type foods.  I target the fresh fruit (oranges and pears), scrambled eggs, and toast.  A glass of orange juice and a cup of hot tea complete my breakfast meal.  I join a group of German tourists at a large table. They are here on a very short visit, flying in yesterday and departing later today.  They went up on the mountain yesterday and then visited a farm before checking into the hotel for the evening.   Today they will visit one of the ancient villages before flying on to Shanghai.  They are traveling together as a group but did not know each other before the trip.  All their arrangements have been made by a German and Chinese tour operator.

I complete a bit of work via the Internet quickly before departing for a full day of activity.  Mr. and Mrs. Wang and Christine meet me in the lobby of the hotel and we depart for a visit to the Tangyue Memorial Archways. When we arrive at the tourist site, Mr. Wang parks the car near two women who appear to be preparing some food from the field.  We are greeted at the entrance by a friend of Mr. Wang and guided to the site. The 7 archways were erected to honor individuals who were recognized by the Emperor during the Qing and Ming Dynasties.  The individuals were recognized for their righteousness, generosity, familiar loyalty, and charitable efforts.  This is the largest collection of archways in China.  There is a temple with stones recognizing the men of this distinguished family.  Next to this building is a temple dedicated to recognize women.  The only such temple in China dedicated to women.  As we leave the tourist site we stop in the shop of our guide. He gives me a gourd that grows in the area.  Don’t worry it has been dried and will not spoil.  He sells ink stones, brushes, and other small items.  They explain to me that this area is famous for the “She Inkstone,” a required tool in traditional calligraphy). As we return to the car, Mrs. Wang pays the women a few coins for watching over the car.

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After our visit to the Tangyue Memorial Archways, we return to the Huangshan International Hotel to meet the Mayor for lunch.  We are escorted to a private dining room where we meet Mr. Zhang, Assistant Mayor of Huangshan Municipal Government and Mr. Liu, Director of Huangshan Tourism Committee.  We exchange business cards and gifts before sitting down to eat. The server brings me silverware which I quickly refuse but thank her for the courtesy. The food was excellent as expected.  I particularly loved the tomato soup which was hearty with large chunks of tomatoes still firm to the bite.  There was a root type vegetable and meat dish that was refreshingly light and a steamed fish. A Japanese style tofu dish was rather tasty.  I am beginning to develop a taste for Japanese and Huangshan tofu dishes. The meal was completed with several dishes that were similar to last night’s dinner. Of course there were toasts repeatedly throughout the meal.  Mr. Zhang toasted me and I replied with a toast to him.  Mr. Liu and I exchanged several toasts among toasts among all the remaining guests as well.  Every time I started to reach for food a server immediately steps forward to serve me.  Yet the others are allowed to serve their own food.  This is a demonstration of respect and I am gracious in accepting this without exception.  Our discussion is about some of the challenges being faced with transportation and attracting tourists via the web page.  I mention what Wang Yu and I are proposing to help Huangshan international tourism grow. 

Anhui is one of the poorer provinces in China. It is not for the vast number of agricultural fields that generate a wealth of wheat, rice, corn, sweet potatoes, lotus root, and sugar case. Anhui does have some natural resources such as iron from Ma’anshan, coal from Huainan, and copper from Tongling.  Their greatest challenge is the transportation expense limiting the amount of exports from the area. Tourism is the largest source of income for the immediate area, but the greatest contributors to this are the vast numbers of domestic tourists that visit the area.  The challenge is reaching larger numbers of international tourists.  Several phone calls are made and the Mayor asks me to present Wang Yu and my proposal for an international English based gateway site on Friday to the Huangshan Tourism Committee.  Our luncheon concludes with photos and a pledge to work together for the benefit of the community’s economic well being.

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Journey to Huangshan begins

10/19/2009

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This morning I pack my carry-on suitcase with the few items I am taking with me to Huangshan later today. Then I prepare to meet Xu Xin who graduated from the University of Utah last spring.  I await her arrival in the Guest House lobby.  She arrives with a bright smile.  It is great to see her and enjoy a lunch of Japanese food.  We walk 15 minutes back to campus and chat non-stop.  I enjoy learning about her activities and aspirations.  Unfortunately, our time together is too short.  We return to my room and gather my items to await Wang Yu’s father who will drive me to Huangshan. 

Mr. Wang Qinzhang arrives with Mingli (Cristine, my English translator) and his brother-in-law, Zhang Xi.  Mr. Wang is gracious and friendly.  We greet and instantly communicate without formal introductions. I can see Wang Yu in her father’s eyes.  Dean Li and Xu Xin see us off in the sleek black Toyota. I slip into the backseat next to Cristine.  The car has a built in GPS system that has guided them to the campus. Although I cannot understand the voice prompts from the GPSystem, I can follow the indication of time and kilometers to go. Our journey to Huangshan begins smoothly.  The first hour disappears slowly as we maneuver through Shanghai traffic.  Cristine and I become acquainted in the back seat of the car.  As we pass the suburbs of Shanghai the factories and small businesses give way to rice fields.  I wonder at the 3 story houses that dot the landscape.  It appears that the effort is to save as much land as possible for agricultural use. It is further interesting to see the metal structures that appear on the top of these houses.  I begin to wonder if these are Chinese lightening rods but I am informed that they have been put there by the residents to have the tallest home.  It is the Chinese version of keeping up with the Jonese!

After 3 hours of driving on expressways, the road begins to curve around mountains and through long tunnels.  In the late afternoon light I point out the tea trees growing above on the mountain sides as we smoothly sweep around the mountains. We are approaching Huangshan and I begin to pay close attention to the roadside although it is difficult to see much as it is now dark outside. As we arrive in Huangshan we are greeted by bright lights of multiple colors and shapes.  Along the river there are lights not just outlining buildings, but along the walls of the river.  It is somewhat like the decorations we might see at Christmas time in the Kansas City Plaza Shopping District.  The city is dressed in lights to welcome tourists and to create a fairy-tale vision of a city of lights.

Our car arrives at a local restaurant known for its organic food, Hai cuisine. A young woman springs from the door of the restaurant and I am introduced to Wang Yu’s mother. She is energetic and welcomes me with a bright smile. I immediately feel comfortable in her company.  We enter through what appears to be the kitchen with several woks filled with bubbling stews and meats.  Live fish, turtles, and birds seem ready to prepare for the pot. We climb the wooden stairs to a private dining room in this small quaint and homey building. I learn quickly that Huangshan cuisine is simple, clean, and flavored with herbs and salt.  A few appetizers are brought in to our table almost immediately.  One server pours a cup of hot tea.  I savor the fragrance of the green tea before sipping from my cup.  It is warm and refreshing.  My cup is refilled several times before the meal really begins.  A large pot is brought in with a soup.  My hosts inform me that you can only get this dish in Huangshan as the small creature used in the soup is found in the crevices of the rocks of the mountains here. From the white and black skin and the small bones, I gather that this is stone frog soup.  Not one to refuse without tasting, I begin by blowing on the bowl to cool the liquid.  The first taste reveals a soothing flavor that is light on my palate. I have not perfected my ability to remove bones delicately so I fear I look a bit silly to them at times. My hosts inform me that this dish is good for your bones, vision, and general health.  I serve up another bowl of the soup. Another dish features tender bamboo that is grown on the mountain.  It has been flavored with mushrooms and a type of sausage.  Delicious.  A tofu dish is served that has a strong aroma which at first makes me hesitate to taste the dish. As the dish makes a second round on the spinning “lazy Suzanne” I take one slice of tofu . . . I hesitate for a moment and then steel myself for the taste.  The tofu is surprisingly light and delicate in flavor. A large crock of a barbeque type flavored meat is served.  This tastes much like Kansas City barbeque and quickly becomes one of my favorite dishes in Huangshan. There are several other dishes but I fear that I was quickly becoming lulled into a food stupor.  I graciously extend my appreciation and attempt to wean away from the table.  The server replaces my plate and refills my tea several times before the plate of watermelon is brought in to signal the end of the feast. I am ready to slip into a deep sleep after a long day.  My hosts take me to my hotel room that has already been readied for me at the Huangshan International Hotel.  Without any hesitation, I am quickly fast asleep.   

 
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    Dr. Linda Ralston (alias UTourDoctor) teaches at the University of Utah in the Department of Parks, Recreation and Tourism. Check out my other blogs:
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