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Tips for Enjoying Huangshan Mountain (Anhui, People's Republic of China)

Huangshan Trees
Huangshan trees
While talking to tourists in Huangshan I repeatedly heard complaints that the Beihai Hotel appeared tired and the beds were hard. Several also mentioned that the hotel was cold at night and the service was less than expected.  A review of TripAdvisor and several blogs on Huangshan, echoed many of these same comments.  Particularly I have found that many Western tourists observe that beds in Chinese hotels are hard. Allow me to clarify the common situation when traveling in China and provide a few recommendations which I hope will help you enjoy your Huangshan experience. 

Map of Sites near Huangshan, Anhui
Map of Sites in the Area
Plan to visit Huangshan for several days: Work with a travel agent or local hotel to arrange a plan that fulfills your needs and hopes for an outstanding experience.  It is possible but it may require a few extraordinary efforts to design a perfect excursion.  I was in Huangshan City (also known as Tunxi or Huang Shan City), for 4 nights and 5 days and still only saw a small percentage of what was available.  Just seeing the mountain area could consume of a week and there are many wonderful attractions located within or near the city of Huangshan.  If you love history, then plan time to visit the “ancient villages” of Xidi and Hongcun, the Tunxi Ancient Street, Hu Wenguang Stone Archways, and the Ancient Residences of Qiankou. If you love scenic views then include Taiping Lake and Thousand Island Lake, Mt. Qiyun, Xin'an River, Guniu Mountain Nature Reserve in addition to the Huangshan Scenic Area. Make sure you plan to visit a tea shop and indulge in the famous Mao Feng Huangshan tea. This tea is among the best tea you will ever have the opportunity to drink. It is strong flavored, yet leaves you feeling refreshed. Invest in the authentic Mao Feng Huangshan tea grown, harvested and sold in Huangshan.  As one of the ten most famous teas in China it is grown now throughout the country.   Although it might seem expensive the authentic Mao Feng tea is well worth the cost and effort of packing a box home as it is nearly impossible to find authentic Mao Feng tea that has been harvested during this past season.

Respect the Land and Plan Ahead

Mt. Huangshan Steps (A Chinese Stairmaster)
Steps carved into Mt. Huangshan
Respect the land. The United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) declared Mount Huangshan Scenic Area a World Heritage Site in 1990.  The area is one of the most beautiful and adored mountain in China and therefore, it is visited by thousands of visitors every day.  UNESCO mandates the provision of waste receptacles every 30 feet and constant stream of staff to pick up the trash. Unfortunately, some people fail to respect the land and you will often see evidence of littering, discarded cigarette butts, and even graffiti on the trees.  Please do not join these disrespectful individuals.  Demonstrate your respect for the land by walking on the designated path and do not litter.  You will see staff collecting trash and recyclables from the trash containers and trail, but they are not your personal maid.  Please respect these individuals and dispose of waste in a proper manner. Many of the trees have received a protective wrap to protect them as the growing season is very short here.  The beautiful Huangshan trees have very deep roots that often extend twice or more times their height.  The size of these trees does not reflect their age (often over 100 years old) as most of their branches are torn by the strong winds that dominate the summit.  The harsh climate of these mountains challenges the vegetation without the burden of being vandalized by thoughtless tourists.

Avoid visiting the area during “Golden Weeks:” Due to the popularity of Mount Huangshan, the Chinese tourists will flock to the area during the annual holidays particularly the first of October and May.  I purposely elected the end of October and still there were throngs of Asian tour groups encountered along the trail.  Work with your guide to arrive at a time when the wait will be short for the cableway and elect routes where you might avoid the most popular viewpoints. Finding a bit of solitude may be difficult during pleasant weather among the throngs of people, yodeling or singing tourists, and guides speaking into their electronic megaphones. I found it an effective technique to mentally shut out the noise and traffic by finding a less popular corner or viewpoint to sit and relax.  Just take a moment to withdraw within yourself to contemplate the beauty you are witnessing.

Chinese Hotels & Beds

Yupinlou Hotel on Mt. Huangshan
Yupinlou Hotel in the Jade Screen Area
Beds in Chinese Hotels: In my extensive travel in China, I have found that most beds are very firm or hard.  I remember my first encounter when I arrived at my first Chinese hotel over a decade ago.  When we arrived exhausted after a 15 hour journey from Utah to San Francisco then to Beijing before arriving in Shanghai, we endured the one hour of traffic before finally arriving at our hotel. I dropped my suitcases at the door and collapsed on the bed in my hotel room.  After recovering from the shock of landing on this solid rock hard surface, I just laughed.  My first reaction was to verify that there was indeed a mattress and springs somewhere under the sheets and blanket. I am not a small person so to find a bed that does not move at all when my full weight lands on it was indeed a bit funny. Personally, I prefer to sleep on a firm bed but this was a really resilient bed.  Perhaps the history of beds in Asia has resulted in Asian tourists preferring hard beds. The ancient Chinese inn typically featured a “Kang” sleeping platform.  A “Kang” was constructed of brick or clay surrounding a flue that conducted the heat from a central cooking stove to the area under the sleeping guests. The Japanese traditionally slept on “Tanami” mats on the floor.  Since Asian tourists represent the largest segment of the Chinese travel market, it is no wonder that the bedding has been designed to satisfy their preferences. Therefore if a hotel is owned by a Chinese company, regardless if they are a 5 or 3 star class hotel you will find the beds very firm.  Typically, if you are staying in an international corporate hotel, such as Holiday Inn, Hyatt, or the Ritz Carleton then you may find bedding that is similar to those you are use the United States. 

The hotels located on Huangshan Mountain are operated by Chinese companies so you can anticipate rather firm beds when staying in this area.  So if you have a difficult time sleeping in these conditions, take a few precautions. Everything used in the hotels located up in the mountain peaks must be carried by porters, including your luggage. All supplies, dishes, linens, food, water heaters, furniture, and water bottles must be carried by porters up the mountain. Then all trash, recycling, and discarded materials must be carried down the mountain.  Without a doubt, you will see these porters carrying loads that exceed their own body weight. Please keep this in mind when traveling in the area. The cost of the accommodations, water, food and souvenirs are due in large part to the challenge of transporting these items up the mountain. Your hotel room may be small and the furniture may be a bit worn or tired-looking. Personally speaking, I do not expect luxury when traveling in remote areas like Huangshan Mountain. Although the hotels may seem expensive compared to the hotels in the valley, they are still a bargain in comparison to other accommodations in many of the United States National Park. Consider how much you would pay for a room at Old Faithful Lodge in Yellowstone National Park ($240 a night). The four stars Beihai Hotel is one of the most popular hotels on Mt. Huangshan.  A recent check of their rates discovered that you would pay $70 to $140 a night.  This is quite a bargain considering the wonderful location.   Please know that the Hotel staff members will attempt to ensure your hotel room is clean and ready for your visit. I have found most staff members go the extra mile to assist their guests in having an enjoyable experience. Remember you are here to enjoy the vistas and beauty that surrounds you. Do not plan to spend much time in your hotel room.  Take time to enjoy the views of the mountain peaks and consider a few inconveniences just part of the price you pay for the luxury of staying in such an amazing location.

Travel Tips

Linda Ralston & Friends in Huangshan City
Enjoying Tea with my friends in Huangshan
Here are some general recommendations a responsible traveler should consider in order to assure you a comfortable and enjoyable experience in Huangshan. They are presented in no particular order:

You should be prepared to communicate with staff members that do not know English. If you do not know the language, bring a Mandarin Chinese language book or electronic translator to help you translate. Please be aware that many of the rural areas of China speak a dialect that is very different from Mandarin Chinese.  That is why I typically arrange for a translator from the local area in advance and I have even brought note cards with common phrases with Chinese on one side and English on the other.  These are very helpful to obtain the food or services that are typically encountered when traveling in China. Even for the tourist that knows some Chinese words and phrases, it may be difficult to effectively communicate. Do not become frustrated if at first your attempts to communicate are not successful.  Find someone that is younger among the staff.  Chinese schools are now requiring students to learn English, so you may find that a younger person has sufficient English skills to help resolve the situation. It is possible to arrange a translator to accompany you on your tour.  I recommend that you can contact the Tourism Management program at Huangshan University to hire a student to assist you. The bonus is you will be helping a college student improve their English skills.  Additionally, they know the area and can take you to some of the restaurants or tourist spots not frequented by the "standard" group or bus tour locations.

Maintain reasonable expectations: When checking into your hotel, check and see if there are extra blankets or duvet covers in the closet. If you have hired a local guide or translator, ask them to help you check into the hotel and check out your hotel room with you. Ask to be shown how to operate the water heater or room heaters.  Sometimes the beds will be equipped with electric warming blankets. If you find yourself having difficulty sleeping on a firm bed, ask for an extra duvet or blanket to put under you to soften the surface.  I typically find that the physical exertion necessary to appreciate the mountain vistas will help you to fall asleep on a firm bed. Since I typically do not use airline blankets or pillows (when they are provided they typically are not very warm) so I carry a soft down blanket that can squeeze into a travel bag that you flatten by rolling.  You can do the same thing with a travel pillow.  I have traveled to the Amazon Rainforest and African savannah where we had cots and pads on the floor with a wool blanket for my sleeping needs.  Therefore, I find the accommodations in China to be very acceptable with a little effort on my part.

Travel Light (Part 1 - Recommended Packing List)

Porter carrying items up Mt. Huangshan
Porters carry supplies up the mountain
Minimize what clothing you are taking to the hotel. Remember that you need to carry your items or pay someone to carry it for you.  Considering the number of steps, I would recommend that you keep the pack extremely lightweight.  I would focus on carrying water, snacks, and fruit to snack on while hiking. (Recently I heard an airline agent inform a traveler that there would be an additional $90 charge for being 14 pounds over the 50 pound limit. This was in addition to the $25 fee already paid.  What if you had to pay $90 to have someone carry a 14 pound day pack? I bet you would cut back on what you were loading up for the overnight or 2 night adventure on the mountain.)

a.  Pack warm pajamas or long underwear to ensure you are warm at night.  I was in Huangshan during late October and it was getting rather cold at night.  So if you are visiting in winter you really need to consider the weather. 
b.    Pack clean and comfortable socks and underwear for each day of hiking.
c.     Carry moleskin and Band-Aids to ensure that you can take immediate action to protect your feet in case you develop a blister or hot spot over the course of the day.
d.    Consider wearing the same outer clothing each day or taking only one change of clothes in case you get wet during the day.  
e.     Always carry your sun block lotion, hat (with a strap to prevent it being blown off by a sudden gust of wind), windbreaker, rain poncho and extra sweater or jacket with you at all times. (The winds that frequent the summit make the use of umbrellas impractical.) Wear layers to ensure you can remove or add a layer according to the current temperature or your exertion levels. Remember that you are traveling at a higher elevation where the weather can change without notice and the sun can be relentless. I apply a sun block cream (50 SPF) each and every day and I still had a pink face at the end of the day.  I forgot to put my hat on or reapply the lotion even though both were in my pack.  I started the day wearing a windbreaker, a long-sleeve sweater, a short sleeve shirt, and a t-shirt.  As the day progressed I found myself removing a layer every hour and then donning them back on when I shifted to a shady and cooler side of the mountain.
f.    Minimize your cosmetics or personal items to small travel bottles. Given the recent difficulties flying with any liquids or lotions, I have discovered several alternatives that are wonderful substitutes in this situation. I love the Sea to Summit Pocket Hand Wash, Shampoo, and Laundry Soap sheets at REI.  They are lightweight and fit in your pocket or a pouch of your day pack.  Each package has 50 thin leaves of “soap” or “shampoo.” You remove a leaf of soap and then add water. Best news is that these products are biodegradable and phosphate free.
g. The primary reason for staying on the mountain overnight is to observe the beauty of a Hunagshan sunset and sunrise. Of course, without the sun it will quickly become dark so be prepared to walk in the dark.  You will need a compact halogen flashlight or head lamp to assist in walking to from your sunrise/sunset vantage point. I prefer a head lamp to leave my hands free. My favorite headlamp has 3 settings adjusted as needed and even comes with a red lens to ensure that you can see for star watching or watching wildlife at night.  Check out the options at your local outdoor sports store or REI.



Travel Tips - (Part 2 - Electronics)

Fuji Film Pinepix Z33 WP Pocket Camera
Fuji Film Finepix Z33 WP Camera
Carry a lightweight but quality camera. The Huangshan Scenic Area possesses an endless number of amazing views.  You will want to capture these on your camera so come prepared.  If you are using an expensive digital SLR camera, remember to carry a weather proof covering to prevent the camera from being damaged by rain.  Also, always attach the camera around your neck and even consider using a chest strap to minimize the amount of swinging your camera is subjected to as you negotiate the many stairways.  You need to keep your hands free to assist in climbing.  Remember to watch your step while walking.  When you want to take a photo, stop and secure your footing before picking up your camera.  I saw a few people attempting to video while walking.  Not a wise decision!  My heart skipped a beat when I saw a young man almost fall off a steep drop off just because he was watching his video screen instead of the pathway.  Fortunately his friend grabbed his arm and helped him regain his balance. I typically use one of my 3 SLR cameras in order to capture the beauty of such wonders, but I elected to not carry my expensive Pentax *ist D with an array of lens.  Instead I selected a waterproof Fujifilm Finepix Z33 camera. This ultra lightweight digital camera features high sensitivity (ISO1600), anti-blur mode (picture stabilization), and face recognition with 10 megapixels and 3X optic zoom. I used a 4 Gig ScanDisk Memory Chip but wish that I had two batteries. My bright green compact camera fits within your palm but did not come with a neck strap. While handing off the camera for a photo it was accidentally dropped and clattered on the granite walkway.  I was thrilled that it still kept taking photos with no problems.  I may have not been able to achieve all the special effects or zoomed in as close as I could have with my Pentax *ist D, but I am sure it would not have survived being dropped on the granite viewing platform.  If I return with my Pentax cameras and lens, I will hire a porter to carry my backpack and miscellaneous gear. Don’t worry I will reward them for their assistance and care of my beloved camera gear. Also, forget the tripod.  I saw a few photographers struggling to set up their tripods among the crowds of people at the most popular viewpoints.  It really is not practical during most of the day due to the number of people who are trying to capture that perfect photo memory.  I would only consider a tripod necessary for capturing sunrise and sunset photos.  Even then, I would recommend using a pocket tripod or a camera bean bag support, as well as bracing against a rock, boulder, or a building. I found a camera bean bag to be indispensable when traveling on an African safari and it has become one of my favorite items included in my travels.

Leave unnecessary electronic devices at your hotel in the city: Remember you are traveling to a remote area where you may not have Internet access or cell phone coverage. You are on vacation so take a break from the stress of the world while visiting Huangshan Mountain Scenic Area.  Leave your computers, cell phones, I-pods, and electronic gadgets locked in a safe at the hotel in the city of Huangshan. (I stayed at the Huangshan International Hotel and observe many groups leaving their luggage at the hotel during their excursions on the mountain.) Make sure you carry extra batteries and memory chips for your camera so that you do not need to download your photos to your computer until you return.


Your Safety and Health is Priority Number 1! (Part 1)

Chinese sign warning tourists regarding watching their steps
A Sign of Warning
Keep your eyes on the path:  I loved seeing this sign on one of my excursions in Huangshan.  As we negotiated the stairs and narrow pathway (particularly when the walkway was suspended above a steep dropoff), we often recalled that message with each other.  Please do not enjoy the views . . . . while walking! Focus on where you are walking at all times.

Keep your hands free: Carry a small backpack or camera bag so that you will have your hands free to hold onto handrails, rock ledges, or each other when walking. When passing large tour groups, it is not unusual to be jostled or accidentally pushed aside by the crowd.  You need to be able to secure your own safety at any moment. No camera or purse is worth taking a fall and spoiling your experience. 


Wear excellent walking shoes or hiking boots: Make sure you wear comfortable walking shoes or lightweight hiking boots. The Mount Huangshan walkways are paved but that does not mean it is an easy task to cover the scenic area.  The walkways have been paved and feature over 60,000 stairs.  Now you may not elect to cover them all in a one day trip, but you will encounter steep and narrow stairways along any direction you take. The walkways are not always consistent in the spacing or width of the step which demands that you watch where you step. Without a doubt, the Mount Huangshan hike I took was strenuous and demanded considerable stamina.  I wore walking shoes with excellent support that were purchased just for this trip.  I had made sure I had broken in the shoes prior to starting this trek.  My feet started to hurt during the last hour of climbing stairs, so next time I will wear lightweight boots and socks designed to cushion my feet. 

Be prepared for the Asian style toilets: My experience traveling in China over the past decade has seen many improvements in the number of western style toilets in the major urban areas. If you are traveling to Shanghai for the World Expo 2010, you can anticipate new modern Western style restrooms.  Unfortunately, they are not common in the public restrooms on Mount Huangshan. You will find western style facilities in your hotel room but the combination of drinking water and physical exertion of hiking will necessitate the use of the public facilities. A little preparation will be help you endure the experience with a laugh or two.  I always carry a small pack of tissues in my pocket because toilet tissue is not commonly available in public restrooms.  I also carry a small bottle of anti-bacterial hand sanitizer gel or individually wrapped anti-bacteria wet tissues for personal use. Use them frequently because your hands will be grabbing railings or other surfaces touched by thousands.  Avoid touching your face or eating before sanitizing your hands.  This will help keep you from catching a cold or flu from other tourists.  Since I plan to wear the same pants on subsequent days on the mountain, I roll up my pant legs to keep them clean while standing astride the Asian style squat toilet. Don’t worry; you will see many locals rolling up their pant legs prior to entering the stall. Believe me you will appreciate the technique.  Of course this is not necessary for those women wearing shorts or skirts, but I never hike in shorts or a skirt.


Sign recognizing a 4 Star Toilet
A 4 Star Tourism Toilet

Your health and Safety is Priority #1 (Part 2)

Just a few of the 60,000 steps on Mt. Huangshan (The Chinese version of a StairMaster)
A Chinese StairMaster
Drink plenty of water and eat healthy snacks. I usually drink about 64 ounces of water each and every day without hiking but even I do not think I drank enough water.  I certainly did not eat sufficient snacks. There are small booths located near the popular viewpoints that sell bottled water, a selection of beverages and snacks, and even souvenirs. Of course, the price is higher here due to the cost of carrying all the supplies and even the refrigerators up the mountain. Unfortunately, I was so exhausted at lunchtime that I did not eat much food.  I paid for this error in judgment for several nights after my excursion on Huangshan Mountain.  My knees became inflamed during the first night and remained so for several days.  I experienced sudden cramps each night in my feet and calves for 3 days. These involuntary skeletal muscle pains were excruciating. After stretching the muscle and massaging it to increase blood flow these pains would subside, but they could have been avoided. These typically signal a depletion of salt that often results from being dehydrated or an imbalance of electrolytes. Chinese food particularly in Anhui Province is typically very salty so I did not realize that I should have eaten some salty snacks.  I did enjoy some dry roasted almonds and fresh fruit during the morning, but I should take greater care in the afternoon during future attempts. 

Indulge in a foot massage: Plan to include a foot massage at the end of the day.  Ask to schedule this in advance when booking your lodging.  You should plan to have the massage an hour after eating your evening meal. Drink plenty of water before, during and after the massage.  Yes, it may cost more due to the location of the hotel but sometimes we need to take care of our body in order to fully enjoy the experience. According to the book The Touch of Love, Thai Massage (written by Sombat Tapanya) massage is an art of healing that originated some 5,000 years ago. The Chinese have practiced and perfected the art of foot massage.  Massage was first described in an ancient Chinese medical book during the reign of Emperor Wendi (179-157 B.C.) of the Han Dynasty. Typical Chinese feet massage starts with a soak in hot water, a scrub, and then wrapped in warm towels. The massage will include a variety of techniques designed to manipulate the sole and toes of the foot.  The massage can feel a bit painful if you have tender feet so it may be helpful to have a translator present to communicate your wishes and concerns.  The masseuse can provide insight to you based on the reflexology techniques. The Chinese Tui Na type of massage manipulates, presses, and squeezes pressure points in an effort to ensure that body fluids are moving efficiently. Unfortunately, Tui Na masseuses believe that pain is an indicator of a problem with the internal organ associated with the particular pressure point being manipulated.  Therefore the masseuse will continue to manipulate an area even if you react with a grimace or a cry of pain.  They believe it is necessary to massage the area in an effort to promote circulation. Research has documented the benefits of foot massage and reflexologies include increased blood circulation, decreased heart rate and respiratory rate, and lower systolic blood pressure. Unfortunately, I mistakenly thought I was too busy with business meetings and lectures to include a foot massage in my busy schedule.  I will ensure that I allow 60 to 90 minutes for a foot massage at the end of the day.  

Tourist crowd outside Hunagshan Beihai Hotel
The crowd near Beihai Hotel.
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